06-15-2016, 06:26 PM | #1 |
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Alignment specs
Just curious what other F22's on the track with camber plates are running ?
I've seen a couple people with 2.5 front/ 1.5 rear ? 1/16 toe in front, 1/8 toe in rear ? What's a good starting point, keep in mind i have the M235xi AWD . I tend to see alot of different recommendations for FWD vs RWD vs AWD for toe settings. Some lean towards absolute 0 in the front, others try to balance out the factory understeer with camber/toe.. -Paul |
06-15-2016, 07:01 PM | #2 | |
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Front: Camber: -2.3 (maxed out on GC plates -- will probably increase to 2.5 with Vorshlag). Toe: 1/16 in Rear: Camber: -2.25 Toe: 3/32 in I think a lot of people run around -2.2 in the rear, and its the front you usually work with to induce/restrict understeer/oversteer. Just a word of caution, before I got my LSD, my alignment was 2.25 front and 1.7 rear. The car was impossible to control on fast (80 mph +) corners, as the back always gave away before the front did. Once I got my LSD, this was not so bad, but I also increased rear camber to at least -2. If you ask Pparana or rwalker, they run much higher front camber, but similar rear camber to me (they are far more experienced drivers). I do not know how this changes with having an xdrive car, but I would imagine the xdrive would make you push more, so maybe you would want to loosen the back up a bit (less camber), or tighten the front (more camber) to induce some oversteer.
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06-15-2016, 11:08 PM | #6 |
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AWD:
I Would prob. run zero toe front, w 2 to 2.2 degrees camber, rear 1.5 to 1.8 w 1/16-1/8 to start. Adjust to suit driving style. RWD: LP setup is pretty close to what I would run on street tires stock ride height, maybe less rear toe. I run 3.1 front w zero toe, 2.1 rear w 1/16 toe. But that is on coilovers w sways and semi slicks. Car is pretty loose, but that's my preference. |
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06-15-2016, 11:38 PM | #7 | |
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06-17-2016, 06:48 PM | #8 |
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Bump for others running M235i on the track.. Got a custom alignment, camber plates? Post here and let me know what your running. Going on the rack tomorrow just looking for opinions/options.
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06-19-2016, 04:36 AM | #9 |
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lol a difficult one. how would i know that unless you just told me. you had to make that post you couldn't have just put your numbers or a link?
http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1213402 Last edited by zipphreak; 06-19-2016 at 04:51 AM.. |
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09-10-2016, 01:11 AM | #10 |
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I went with the -2.5 in the front and -1.75 in the rear, 1/16 front toe & 1/8 rear toe. 245 square & awd. It was fairly balanced. I may try -2 in the rear next time just to see how it reacts.
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09-11-2016, 01:09 AM | #12 |
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02-15-2018, 08:06 AM | #13 |
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I'm picking up my m240xi tomorrow
One of the first things I want to do is add camber plates and get a more aggressive alignment, so the all the specs above are superrrr helpful. I plan on autocross and light track duty. One question i had was how much you can loosen the car up and reduce understeer with just the addition of toe out in the rear (looks like most of you are running that anyway). I'm thinking I might try it a bit without the camber plates and see how it feels. I'm coming from a MINI that I had to run -2.6 camber in the front and 0.1 toe rear to neutralize the understeer (barely) |
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02-15-2018, 09:11 AM | #14 | |
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02-16-2018, 01:32 PM | #15 |
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RWD
Front: -3 camber 0 toe Rear: -2.5 camber 1/16 toe in 255 square RE71. KW Clubsport coilovers. Custom front spring rate (for square setup). EDIT: Just saw you're AWD. When I had my Evo I did: 0 toe rear Slight toe out in the front. This was to get the AWD feel more RWD bias.
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02-26-2018, 08:14 AM | #16 |
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I am at -2.7 on the front and have really even temperature distribution between the inside and outside of the tires.
At -2.2 on the rears, I am experiencing a 6*F different between the inside and outside of the tire (inside hotter). I'll need to dial it back to -2 or -1.8. Something to keep in mind for some folks that may be browsing for information, these alignments are for the track. Doing these alignments for a car that is for the street is expensive and less safe. With a lot of camber, you have less of a tire contact patch with the ground when driving normally. Less contact with the ground = less traction. With a lot of camber, you'll also wear out the inside of your tire a lot more quickly than if you kept stock alignment (because you changed the contact patch from an even distribution across the tire to just the inside). The reason for this alignment is for the track or autocross where you are pulling a lot of lateral Gs and the lean of the car requires camber to get the max contact patch on turns for extra traction. It also saves money on tires since the contact patch is spread equally on the hard turns instead of the outside edge. "Spirited" driving on public roads do not need all the extra camber. You don't need more camber to get rid of the understeer if you don't track/autocross. If anybody every runs into an understeer/oversteer issue on dry public roads, that's more of a public safety issue.
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