[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by moldcad

Following the Speedbuster, I used the RC Ultimate on my N20 F10 quite a lot and found it programmed better - the boost started earlier, so less hesitation and a very distinctive pull even in Comfort mode and RPM just above 1,200 - all that improving power delivery linearity. Since I replaced the 528xi with my current M235i, I still had the RCU collecting dust - but finally some 2 months ago I sent it to the Manufacturer for reflashing for N55. They charged me for that and for the cables (the latter being strange, as they kept my N20 cables); anyway - including shipment - it cost me some Euro 100. On the day it came back, I visited their webpage seeking some installation instructions in the M235i - only to find out that they have dropped price, and include one free reflash as well as engine warranty (!!!). I was mad, but unfortunately my reflashed RCU is considered a "previous model" and all those goodies don't apply

Anyway, I'm going to test it on my M235i soon - any advise on the best placement of the RCU box? I'd be grateful for your solutions guys (perhaps even with some pics) -TIA.

Piotr

The RC is not a linear tune, it increased boost the same at every RPM. You are correct in saying more boost early, because it's simply the same boost no matter what. Some may like this some may not, but RC is in no way a linear tune. Plus a tune for a different engine N20 should not be compared to a tune for N55. Just as I wouldn't say look at the Rebellion tune for the cla45 amg and think it had anything relevant to say about a tune solution for my car. Some will feel the higher boost below 3k rpms's feels better, but the AA8 is pushing more boost than the RCU above 3k to redline. End of the day, I don't really care, I've tried 3 solutions for this car and will probably switch to JB4 in spring to go better with my downpipe and occasional E85 mix; all these tunes are better than stock.

[FSociety]

moldcad I think the first post where AlexGT advices on where he puts it himself.

Also, on my N20 the only surge (too much boost) I felt was when you're running a bit high setting like in the 0-4 setting, but while I'm in C-F all is smooth. As a matter of fact, I flashed my car back to stock since I'm trading it in and decided to play with RaceChip + DP + S55 spark plugs and let me tell u, the delivery is WAY better due to the better plugs too.

If you're going to run 93 or better octane and going to increase some more boost than default def try getting S55 plugs when your stock plugs need replacement.

Cheers

[AlexGT]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

moldcad I think the first post where AlexGT advices on where he puts it himself.

Also, on my N20 the only surge (too much boost) I felt was when you're running a bit high setting like in the 0-4 setting, but while I'm in C-F all is smooth. As a matter of fact, I flashed my car back to stock since I'm trading it in and decided to play with RaceChip + DP + S55 spark plugs and let me tell u, the delivery is WAY better due to the better plugs too.

If you're going to run 93 or better octane and going to increase some more boost than default def try getting S55 plugs when your stock plugs need replacement.

Cheers

ROBNYC I'm preparing a short but strong comment about me uninstalling the RaceChip from my car man.

[AlexGT]

Two months ago, I started the car in the morning, went out my garage and like 30 seconds later of cruising driving (not hard btw), my screen showed an error that in English means: Propulsion, Drive moderately, cannot deliver full power. Schedule service check. And at the same time, the engine started to hesitate and literally there was no power when stepping on the gas pedal.

The same happened for like 3 other times (within 2 weeks / I don't daily drive this car), then it didn't appear anymore. But 3 weeks ago, I met with a friend to do a short road trip (he has an F80 LCI M3), at that time I really drove hard as you all can imagine. While driving, no error nor loss of power happened, but at that same day in the afternoon, I got the same error and loss of power while cruising at 40-50kms/h. From that day, I got that problem every single time I drove the car, regardless if I was driving hard or just cruising and it got worse, if in traffic, when I stopped, the transmission changed automatically to Neutral position and the car turned off.

So, this Friday I drove again, got the error and loss of power (again), returned to my house, opened the hood, took off the RaceChip and went for a test drive. I drove the car very very hard, not a single error, no loss of power, then I cruised and no problems either. The whole weekend I used the car in traffic, open road, with automatic and manual configuration, no problems at all.

I found this article last night, I guess I'm not the only one that have experienced this specific problem when using a RaceChip box, I'm glad that no one here has experienced that (I searched and found nothing here in 2addicts).

http://sjuut.dk/?RaceChip

Again, this is FYI for all you RaceChip owners. BTW, I tried to get comments from RaceChip guys, no response at all.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by AlexGT

Two months ago, I started the car in the morning, went out my garage and like 30 seconds later of cruising driving (not hard btw), my screen showed an error that in English means: Propulsion, Drive moderately, cannot deliver full power. Schedule service check. And at the same time, the engine started to hesitate and literally there was no power when stepping on the gas pedal.

The same happened for like 3 other times (within 2 weeks / I don't daily drive this car), then it didn't appear anymore. But 3 weeks ago, I met with a friend to do a short road trip (he has an F80 LCI M3), at that time I really drove hard as you all can imagine. While driving, no error nor loss of power happened, but at that same day in the afternoon, I got the same error and loss of power while cruising at 40-50kms/h. From that day, I got that problem every single time I drove the car, regardless if I was driving hard or just cruising and it got worse, if in traffic, when I stopped, the transmission changed automatically to Neutral position and the car turned off.

So, this Friday I drove again, got the error and loss of power (again), returned to my house, opened the hood, took off the RaceChip and went for a test drive. I drove the car very very hard, not a single error, no loss of power, then I cruised and no problems either. The whole weekend I used the car in traffic, open road, with automatic and manual configuration, no problems at all.

I found this article last night, I guess I'm not the only one that have experienced this specific problem when using a RaceChip box, I'm glad that no one here has experienced that (I searched and found nothing here in 2addicts).

http://sjuut.dk/?RaceChip

Again, this is FYI for all you RaceChip owners. BTW, I tried to get comments from RaceChip guys, no response at all.

I believe RaceChip has been the luckier one, since the bms stage1 is the most favorable in the Drivetrain Malfunctions. I've logged 20,000 miles in various settings no issues. But, the importance is what fuel are you using and what setting at the time?

Interesting article, and sorry to hear about the error. I hope you dont have BMS Intake.
RaceChip-USA and Germany haven't responded?

[AlexGT]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

I believe RaceChip has been the luckier one, since the bms stage1 is the most favorable in the Drivetrain Malfunctions. I've logged 20,000 miles in various settings no issues. But, the importance is what fuel are you using and what setting at the time?

Interesting article, and sorry to hear about the error. I hope you dont have BMS Intake.
RaceChip-USA and Germany haven't responded?

Yeah, that box was useful for as long as it didn't throw me any errors and performance problems. I always use 91 octane, that is the best gas we get in my country, racechip was at it's default setting.

Anyway, I'm not installing back that thing on my precious car anymore, even if RaceChip replies, it is obvious that the box was the reason I was having those problems. No more piggy backs for me, RaceChip or any other brand. I'll wait for an ECU tuning that could be available without the need of sending the ECU.

And no brother, I'm not using BMS intake, I have the Dinan carbon intake.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by AlexGT

Yeah, that box was useful for as long as it didn't throw me any errors and performance problems. I always use 91 octane, that is the best gas we get in my country, racechip was at it's default setting.

Anyway, I'm not installing back that thing on my precious car anymore, even if RaceChip replies, it is obvious that the box was the reason I was having those problems. No more piggy backs for me, RaceChip or any other brand. I'll wait for an ECU tuning that could be available without the need of sending the ECU.

And no brother, I'm not using BMS intake, I have the Dinan carbon intake.

Sorry to hear that again, and totally understand. Very weird scenario.
Did this happen at the same gas station you've been filling up?
Have you any TopTierGas.com in your country?

[AlexGT]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

Sorry to hear that again, and totally understand. Very weird scenario.
Did this happen at the same gas station you've been filling up?
Have you any TopTierGas.com in your country?

Same gas station as always, nope, we don't have toptiergas here.

The problem is the box, if it was the gas, I'd still have that problem. Either way, if the gas was the case, then RaceChip should advice buyers that their box will only work with some specific type of fuel

Cheers man

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by AlexGT

Same gas station as always, nope, we don't have toptiergas here.

The problem is the box, if it was the gas, I'd still have that problem. Either way, if the gas was the case, then RaceChip should advice buyers that their box will only work with some specific type of fuel

Cheers man

Agreed with you, sorry to hear =\

Contact the seller and have them replace your box.
I believe there is a Racechip Guatemala Center no?
I know they have one in Mexico (huge)

[AlexGT]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

Agreed with you, sorry to hear =\

Contact the seller and have them replace your box.
I believe there is a Racechip Guatemala Center no?
I know they have one in Mexico (huge)

No man, I'm literally the only BMW owner who "had" a RaceChip box.

But I do appreciate your concern and suggestions. I'm very practical when it comes to my car, if a tune is making me worry or giving me a hard time, off it goes. The M235i is a very expensive car here in Guatemala, I honestly don't have the money nor the guts to be "playing" with its integrity nor with the local dealership and all their "warranty" crap. In addition, I have way too much stress at work to be adding some more due to car tuning related stuff hehehe.

I'll wait for an ECU tune when available in my country.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by AlexGT

No man, I'm literally the only BMW owner who "had" a RaceChip box.

But I do appreciate your concern and suggestions. I'm very practical when it comes to my car, if a tune is making me worry or giving me a hard time, off it goes. The M235i is a very expensive car here in Guatemala, I honestly don't have the money nor the guts to be "playing" with its integrity nor with the local dealership and all their "warranty" crap. In addition, I have way too much stress at work to be adding some more due to car tuning related stuff hehehe.

I'll wait for an ECU tune when available in my country.

I'm with you brother!
I support whatever you decide to do

Just for curiosity, did you inspect the box and cables and where it was installed (excessive heat) maybe?

[AlexGT]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

I'm with you brother!
I support whatever you decide to do

Just for curiosity, did you inspect the box and cables and where it was installed (excessive heat) maybe?

Well I actually looked at them when I took it off, all cables and connectors were in great shape.

[r33_RGSport]

@ROBNYC and AlexGT I replied on the other thread.
Short answer, the limp mode is most likely caused by failing TMAP and/or MAP sensors by BMW.

[AlexGT]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

@ROBNYC and AlexGT I replied on the other thread.
Short answer, the limp mode is most likely caused by failing TMAP and/or MAP sensors by BMW.

I already replied to you too, sorry, but until I get these problems again now that I'm running without the RaceChip, I will not believe that my sensors or any other component has failed.

[kdog26372]

It could very easily be a bad connector on the RaceChip or something failed in the box. Have you tried having it plugged in and using the dummy plug to bypass the unit. If you experience problems like this, then somewhere in the wire loop you've got a bad connection. If all is good, then the unit itself seems to have an issue with it's ECU or something inside.

If it's a bad BMW sensor then I think you're correct, it would should up all the time, not just when the unit is plugged in,

[chihao]

All this talk and still NO 0-100 km times YET!

[Prazision]

coming from an n54 motor that was tuned, try getting new coils. car untuned ran great, when tuned would misfire and all those issues you are describing. Brought the car tuned to the shop, and they confirmed the coils needed replacement.

[Craig242]

Has anyone tried the Pro2 box instead of the Ultimate?

Almost half the price...

[2Banger]

Anybody interested in a RaceChip? Have one for my N20, I can send it back to get re-programmed and sell to you at a good price!

[leeadam]

Originally Posted by Craig242

Has anyone tried the Pro2 box instead of the Ultimate?

Almost half the price...

im considering that one.

[Craig242]

Originally Posted by leeadam

im considering that one.

I has the pro2 on my E92 320D and it was brilliant.

Just wondering if there was a reason why 235i owners didn't go for the pro2...

[leeadam]

So most seem to run C to F on the left hand dial...does anyone ever adjust the right hand dial that regulates the RPM range in which the Rc is active and deactivated... default is 1500-3500 rpm...every additional change increases it by 150rpm so im told by RC that you should not exceed 3 or 4??...this is on the pro2 which im thinking of getting in the next month