12-09-2016, 04:42 PM | #1 |
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Best midbass options for underseat location
I'm looking for the best 8" aftermarket midbass (not subwoofer) options for the underseat location.. I've searched around and found a couple subwoofer options, earthquake sxs8 being the most popular. But i have a dedicated 12" trunk sub, really look to fill-out the midpass.
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12-15-2016, 08:08 PM | #2 |
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Have you taken a look at our GhostSubs for your car? I know you specifically want a midbass, but that will be determined more by the crossovers in the car than the driver itself since the underseat woofers are small and shallow. The response is plenty quick enough to be used as fill between your sub and door speakers.
Another option I've used and liked is the Gladdens. Let me know if you have any questions! Midbass is so frequently overlooked, and so important... |
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12-15-2016, 08:21 PM | #3 |
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Yah i have but i believe i'm looking for 4ohm for the HK system (assuming i would keep the HK amp), I want to drive more power though so i might look for a 2ch amp. The ones on your site are showing 2ohm. Plus the stock HK DSP crosses over " i read" around 200hz. I would need to replace the factory HK amp in order to setup a low pass around 500hz to get the extension.
Your drivers are also subwoofers, and im looking specifically for designed midwoofers. |
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12-16-2016, 09:36 AM | #4 | |
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Within the pro sound reproduction industry, generally: Sub-bass = anything below 65 Hz Bass = 65-125 Hz Mid-bass = 125-250 Hz Low-mids = 250-500 Hz Mids = 500-800 Hz (Note: Most of these represent full octaves. For reference: the fundamental frequency on the low "E" string on a bass guitar is 41 Hz) Within the consumer mobile audio industry: Sub-bass = anything below 80 Hz Bass = 80-175 Hz Mid-bass = 175-350 Hz Mids = 350-750 Hz This is part of the reason consumer speaker manufacturers can get away with calling what is actually a bass or mid-bass driver a sub. The definition is not set, and if that speaker can reproduce below 80 Hz without a massive SPL dropoff -- even if that speaker's optimal reproduction range is actually bass or midbass -- it can get away with being called a sub. Now here's the thing: the OEM 'subs' are NOT subs. They are optimal bass drivers that can reproduce sub-bass frequencies in short bursts and with high distortion because they are underpowered. What the OP is looking for are mid-woofers, which optimally reproduce mid-bass frequencies but can extend lower and higher if allowed by the DSP and the electronics (i.e., filters, etc.). In a mobile environment, these are the best low-frequency drivers to use in almost any multi-speaker application for two reasons: 1). Most music -- even music with heavy sub-bass that lives around the low-E fundamental that I mentioned earlier, such as some forms of metal and orchestral music -- is recorded to emphasize the octave above the fundamental as the fundamental. In the case of low E, that would be 80 Hz, which a good mid-woofer can reach easily. 2). Mid-bass drivers require far less power to operate efficiently then bass or sub-bass drivers. (And for the record: That low pulse beat associated with a lot of hip hop and electronic music? It's usually not a deep sub-bass frequency. They vary depending on the composition, but tonally they average around 75 Hz)
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12-16-2016, 09:56 AM | #6 |
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I'm in advertising these days. In a former life I was a pro music critic, and I've played bass and guitar in various bands for many years. Audiophilia is a lifelong ancillary hobby to my music interests.
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12-16-2016, 05:20 PM | #8 |
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The Jehnert drop-ins available for the 2 Series seem to be pretty good; I remember at least a couple of forum members installing them and being happy with them. I would avoid MB Quart mobile audio; the research I've done on it suggests that the mobile product is nowhere near up to snuff with the home stuff.
I would research Dayton Audio for a potential solution. I nearly installed Dayton 6" midbass drivers in a 370z I had; they're good, cost-effective DIY mobile speakers that not a lot are aware of. (I ended up leaving the audio alone in the 370z. Only had it for about 19 months.)
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12-16-2016, 07:45 PM | #10 |
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Do you have the HK or regular high system ? Do they fit with those included acrylic rings without any additional spacers? Are they 4ohm? The website seems to say 6ohm under the specs, but that's pretty bizarre?
http://www.jehnert.de/en/shop/speake...t-housing-bmw/ Edit: Found the specs Last edited by zipphreak; 12-16-2016 at 08:19 PM.. |
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12-16-2016, 10:55 PM | #11 | |
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12-17-2016, 04:55 PM | #12 |
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Hi guys i got quoted $445 USD for a pair of the Jehnert XE200R's.. There was only one US distributor listed on their site.. Seems pretty high, thought VAT is listed on their site as 19%.
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12-19-2016, 11:58 AM | #13 |
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I'd seriously find an outlet in the EU (the U.K., Germany, etc.) to buy the Jehnerts. The dollar is stronger than it's been in many years, and VAT is not charged for outside-EU sales. Even with shipping, they're likely to be significantly cheaper there than here.
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12-19-2016, 04:37 PM | #15 | |
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Note whether or not a retailer includes VAT in a price. If it does, lop off that 19%; that's about all you'll pay. Also, definitely gravitate toward a retailer that sells internationally regularly, many will point that out on its website (particularly to U.S. customers now since the dollar's strong). If a retailer tries to charge it, politely ask them not to include it. If they give you any sort of hard time about it, buy somewhere else.
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12-20-2016, 03:25 PM | #16 | |
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This is also why EU cars are actually cheaper in the US than the EU itself. Something which I find quite funny |
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12-20-2016, 03:31 PM | #17 |
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Yep: That's typically my experience as well, though I've run into a few non-auto-related sites (bass guitars, motorcycles, materials fabricators, fabricators, antiquities) that listed prices including VAT because their international sales volume is relatively small. In those cases, a phone call or email is typically the way to get around it.
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04-30-2021, 08:19 AM | #18 |
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Sorry to bump this thread guys but I am after some advice! Right I have an amplifier with only hpf on it for my underseat subwoofers and want to crossover the highs at 250hz or maybe a bit lower 200hz is there such a thing as resistor or capacitor that can do this in-line or maybe passive crossover or do I have to go down the active crossover route? Cheers
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