02-11-2019, 04:41 PM | #1 |
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Is my midpipe too low?
Had a Dinan midpipe installed and like several others, was getting some rattling. Looks like the mid pipe is touching the underbody rear cross plate.
Someone mentioned washers. Do they just go in the 4 corners of the middle plate? Do I do the same with the arms? Also, does this cause any issues with the purpose of the braces i.e. effectiveness? Anyone know off top of their head the washer size they used, type and how many? I know, not hard to find out, just will save me a trip post part removal. I also noticed that the midpipe may need to be turned more. I can't tell if it's hanging too low under that car. Anyone else mind sharing some pics of your's if different, or confirm for me if I need to adjust more? I'm worried once I get the lowering springs in it'll be a bigger issue. The installers where fighting this issue in that the more they turned it level, the more the muffler tips then angled down. Some photos attached. Thanks for any advice and input! |
02-12-2019, 04:02 PM | #2 |
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That does look a bit low judging by the pics from the side. Did you install it? If so, can you get a slight turn on the pipe? If so, you could try loosen up the braces and twist to angle it up some. Even the slightest turn could make a difference.
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02-12-2019, 08:17 PM | #3 | |
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Do you think the washer idea ok to try? Sounds like the plate is just there to prevent a complete fall out of the pipe if something goes wrong? |
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02-13-2019, 12:16 AM | #5 |
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Dang I'm glad you posted this. I had Dinan exhaust installed and my stock midpipe looks like this now. I'm wondering if they twisted it a little installing the exhaust. It just seemed way lower from the back after and I didn't remember it being like that before but I couldn't say for sure so I just didn't mention it
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02-13-2019, 03:34 PM | #6 |
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OK, so I hopped in under the car today and was able to make some more adjustments. In my opinion, what Dinan attempted to solve in design, failed a bit in function.
I ended up loosening all the clamps and the hanger nut. I then twisted the front pipe as much as I could to bring the first elbow up leveling it as much as I could. It honestly doesn't look like it did much but it was enough to crate the gap needed over the crossmember. Where I think it is causing people a problem is that the part over the cross member sags when the clamps are not yet tight. So even though you are making adjustments at the rear and middle by twisting the pipes, you are doing so with weight in the middle clamp causing a droop. To combat this I first made sure the midpipe was pushed from the muffler end as far forward as reasonably possible, so there was more pipe overlap in the middle, then I took my hydraulic jack and set it right at the middle clamp and slightly jacked up the pipe. This seemed to give a better seating on the two mid pipe connections while i tightened everything and also let the rear clamp settle properly on the muffler so it wasn't sagging all silly like when making the rear adjustment. I have good clearance now over the cross member, no rattle and the tail pipes are in a good position. Be careful if you jack the pipe, your just trying to "hold" it in position. You don't want to bend it or push it up into the heat shield and damage anything. Hope this helps, and god speed. For what should be a simple plug and play, I felt like I was solving one of those puzzles you buy at Cracker Barrel. |
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02-13-2019, 07:33 PM | #8 | |
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The first time i brought in my car for the rattle + the exhaust being to low, BMW fixed the rattle but said there is nothing they can do about the exhaust. My car started to rattle again last week, but instead of taking it back to BMW, today i took it to an exhaust shop to put it on a lift to see exactly whats going on. As we suspected, the clamp holding the midpipe together was loose so we pushed both midpipes back together and re tightened the clamp which stopped the rattle but the mid pipe is barely clearing the cross member. Slightly pushing up on the muffler (to the point where the tips fit flush in the rear diffuser) also moved the midpipe roughly an inch above the cross member. My plan going forward is to buy smaller exhaust hangers which will solve the exhaust hanging to low and stop the midpipe from hitting the cross member. If the clamp comes lose again we are just going to weld the clamp together. |
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02-13-2019, 08:12 PM | #9 | |
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My opinion is to do the midpipe first. if you like it, stay with it. if you want to make more sound, go with the Dinan exhaust after. Don't do the exhaust first. I love the sound right now on the car. vandridine Are you following the torque recommendations? Are you using the Dinan supplied clamps? I'm curious cause the sound (the bad rattling) got progressively worse on mine, so I may have experienced a similar issue. |
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02-13-2019, 09:04 PM | #10 | |
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02-18-2019, 02:44 AM | #11 |
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Drives: 2018 230i MSport
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Autobahn88 Universal Exhaust Muffler Hanger Bushing, 2 Holes, 10mm (0.4") Hole Size, for Honda, Mazda, Subaru - Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LOPWIM2..._4.MACb3Y2X1W6
I can across a similar thread about the exhaust not fitting in the diffuser properly. Someone recommended these to fix the problem. Stiffer than stock and fits better. |
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02-18-2019, 01:02 PM | #12 |
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I installed mind about a year ago and I could not figure out the right twist/potions so that it does not touch the heat shield or cross brace.
So I used a big hammer to dent the pipe where it would hit the cross brace and install it as far away from the heat shield as possible. It does not hit or rattle anymore except when it get's very cold, car is not warmed up and going over very specific height bump. Then it hit the cross brace. It does not hit the brace if the car has been running for 2~3 minute after start. only when it's cold and just started. |
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