1) From the comparison picture, only the aluminum section is actually smaller so it goes into stock pipe, though the opening that connects to compressor wheel is larger. Am I seeing it correct?
2) From the picture, it doesn't look to me like a solid piece, I am sure it feels different when handed on, but do you have concern on leakage? after all, it's two pieces preassembled.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalker
I've just undertaken this installation. It's a bit of a bear, access to this area is very, very tight on our cars.
Before you start, make sure you have everything. In particular verify that the new inlet has o-rings in the grooves on the turbo end of the pipe. Mine didn't have these, and I didn't realize these were missing until I had everything apart :-( .
Removal of stock inlet pipe:- put car on ramps, open hood, let cool
- remove belly pan and steering rack cover (bunch of 8mm bolts)
- from beneath: remove nut securing stock inlet pipe to turbo (10mm, I think... might have been 11mm, though)
- from above: remove engine cover
- disconnect crankcase ventilation hose from top of valve cover (gently pry 4 tabs up/out while gently pulling away from valve cover)
- remove torx 25 screw holding crankcase vent tube to inlet pipe
- gently work crankcase vent tube free from inlet move out of the way (on top of engine, leave connected to wiring harness)
- loosen 10mm bolt that fastens inlet tube bracket to head
- unclip airbox top
- loosen hose clamp joining airbox pipe to inlet pipe
- unclip MAF sensor
- remove airbox top and pipe, place out of the way
- pull stock inlet up and forward
Installation is the reverse of removal, except that you leave off the nut on the turbo, there's no mounting tab on the Pure pipe.
Gotchas:- The inlet tends to go downward when re-installing, which can cause it to snag on the stud that secures the stock inlet to the turbo. I found it best to slide the inlet partway in, then guide it the rest of the way into the turbo from underneath. Once lined up straight, go back up top to push the inlet the rest of the way into the turbo.
- The screw clamp holding the aluminum part to the plastic on the Pure inlet sticks out a lot and can snag on the wiring harnesses and cooling hoses in the area. Be patient, and massage these in gently, pushing bits out of the way in sequence.
- The inlet pipe fits very tightly inside the turbo inlet, a little oil on the o-rings helps here. Also, be sure the inlet is lined up straight before using any force to push into the turbo, the lip of the turbo inlet is sharp and will pinch/cut the inner o-ring if you're not careful at this phase. Because of this tight tolerance, I actually broke the Pure inlet pipe down into 2 parts for installation. This way, I could line up the aluminum bit into the turbo carefully (without the plastic interfering with alignment), then I worked the plastic piece onto the aluminum end from the top. This makes it necessary to tighten that hose clamp from underneath the car, which is extremely fiddly and tight. I managed to get an 11mm deep socket on it with a 3/8" ratchet, but I cursed the whole way.
Before and after:
I have an EWG car, so I can't use PWM directly to gauge whether the turbo is working less hard, but PWM is on average lower than before. Trap speeds on my daily romp are the same or better. I noticed no more or less turbo noise than before (I have the PPK airbox).
My Verdict:
Low on bang for buck, but good for checking every mod box short of upgrading turbos. Good for peace of mind  . |